Five 2×4 ladders against the back gable wall. Thirty totes hung by the rim — a 27‑gal tote as the base row of each column, 14‑gal above, stepping from two 7‑high columns in the low right corner up to two 8‑high toward the peak.
Totes30
Columns4 · 7·7·8·8
Footprint89½ × 28½ in
Tall legs101½ in
Est. cost with totes~$470
Front elevation
low right corner → rises to the peak
FIT FIRST
Two numbers decide whether the totes hang right: the ~17½″ runner gap (a hair under the rim so it catches) and the hang below the runner (8⅝″ for the 14‑gal, ~13¼″ for the 27‑gal). Test‑fit one of each before cutting all 60 runners — totes vary.
30
totes total
7·7·8·8
totes per column
34
2×4 boards
~$197
rack, before totes
Before you start. This rack was designed for one particular shed: a gable wall 96″ high at the low corner, rising to a peak of about 120″. The method works on any wall, but the leg lengths and the number of totes per column are sized to that ceiling, so adjust them to yours. The dimensions also assume HDX 14‑gal and 27‑gal totes. Other brands have different rims, so test‑fit before cutting.
Things I didn’t anticipate
Notes from actually building it. Worth reading before you cut anything.
Notch the back posts for the baseboard. I notched the bottom of the posts that stand against the wall so they clear the baseboard and sit flush.
Add two crossmembers across the back. They let me fix the whole rack to the wall with structural screws, so it can’t tip and it stays square.
Leave a little extra width. A bit of extra room lets an overstuffed tote bulge. That’s exactly what happened to one of the larger totes, which holds my kids’ bouncy house.
Tape the runners. HDPE tape along each rail stops the totes scraping the paint away as they slide in and out.
Paint it. I painted the rack with Scuff‑X to give it a finished look.
Build it where it will live. I had to assemble the rack inside the shed. It wouldn’t fit through the double doors, and it weighs a ridiculous amount.
Still to come. I plan to add plywood across the top for shelves.
Build it
Seven steps, in order. Tick each as you go — progress saves in your browser.
01
Cut all the parts
Tall legs from 10′, the rest from 8′
Cut everything first. The taller 27‑gal base row pushes the tall columns past 8 ft, so the six tall legs come from 2×4×10′ boards and everything else from 8‑footers.
If the store offers cutting, have them cut the sixty 28½″ runners (twenty boards, three each) to save time. Label each leg A–E; A is the right end, in the low corner.
6 × 2×4×10ft28 × 2×4×8ftcut 60 runners
02
Mark the rim line on the legs
First runner 14¾″, then +11.8″
Mark the first runner at 14¾″ off the floor. That leaves the taller 27‑gal base tote a 1½″ gap above the floor, the same gap every tote above it gets.
Each runner after that is 11.8″ higher. Cut an 8‑5/16″ spacer block to set the distance between runners without measuring each one. Both tote sizes share the same rim, so the spacing stays uniform all the way up, including where the 27‑gal gives way to the 14‑gal. Short ladders (A, B) get seven marks; tall (C, D, E) get eight.
14¾″ first, then +11.8″8-5/16″ spacer block
03
Build the five ladders
One ladder — 28½″ deep, runners on edgeFront section — rim catches, body hangs
Each ladder is two legs joined by its runners. Legs sit 28½″ apart; runners stand on edge and screw into each leg end with two 2½″ screws.
Middle ladders (B, C, D) get runners on both faces; ends (A, E) on one. On edge, the pair leaves ~17½″ between them — the rim catches, the body hangs through.
2½″ screws, 2/endon edge, ~17½″ gapmiddle = both faces
04
Stand up against the gable wall
Top‑down — wall behind, aisle in front
Set the ladders 20½″ apart with ladder A tight in the right corner, and screw a full‑length base rail across the feet, front and back (two 2½″ screws per leg). Runners run front‑to‑back, so totes slide toward the aisle.
Check for square before the rails are fully driven.
2 base rails 89½″2½″ screwsA in the right corner
05
Tie the ladder tops
Back view — top ties + anchor points
Tie adjacent ladder tops together, front and back — these hold the rack square and keep the ladder spacing. No diagonal braces: the wall anchoring in the next step is what stops the rack folding sideways.
The frame is loose until it's anchored, so stand it against the wall, get it plumb and square, and fix it to the studs right away (or tack one temporary diagonal across the back just for the stand-up).
8 top ties 20½″no diagonals — wall does it
06
Anchor to the gable wall
Section — back leg into a stud
With no diagonals, the wall anchor does double duty — anti-tip and anti-rack — so anchor at several points, top and bottom, across the width, not just once. The top anchors stop forward tipping; the lower ones stop side-to-side racking.
The ladders won't all line up with studs, so once the rack is standing, fit the anchor points to your wall's stud layout and add a back cleat wherever a leg falls between studs. Screw into studs only, never down into the floor. Put a felt pad under each foot to protect a finished floor. Anchor it before loading any totes.
¼″×4″ structural into studstop & bottom, several pointsanchor before loading
07
Hang the totes
Front elevation — 27-gal base row, low right
Bottom tier of each column is the 27‑gal (same rim and footprint as the 14‑gal, just taller) so it hangs on the same runners; 14‑gal above. Rim rides the rails, body hangs below; lids can stay on.
Load heaviest low — the big 27s on the bottom are made for it. Tall columns top out ~99″, still 10–15″ under the peak.
27-gal base, 14-gal above7·7·8·8heavy low
Column spacing
How one column stacks: the bottom runner sits at 14¾″ (holding the taller 27‑gal with a 1½″ floor gap), then every runner is +11.8″. Both totes share the same rim, so the pitch stays a uniform 11.8″ all the way up and every gap is 1½″.
Vertical — runner heights and the 11.8″ pitch
Horizontal — rim on two runners, ~17½″ gap
Verify against your own totes: the ~17½″ rim gap, the 14‑gal 8⅝″ hang, and the 27‑gal hang (~13¼″). Test-fit one of each before cutting all 60 runners.
Reference
Cut list — 2×4 (tall legs 10′, rest 8′)
Part
Length
Qty
Cut from
Notes
Tall ladder legs
101½″
6
2×4×10′ (1/bd)
Ladders C, D, E
Short ladder legs
89½″
4
2×4×8′ (1/bd)
Ladders A, B
Runners (on edge)
28½″
60
2×4×8′ (3/bd)
2 per rim line
Base rails
89½″
2
2×4×8′ (1/bd)
Front + back
Top ties
20½″
8
2×4×8′ (4/bd)
4 bays × 2
Purchase list
Item
Qty
Unit
Total
2×4 × 10 ft SPF
6
~$5.50
~$33
2×4 × 8 ft SPF
28
~$4.50
~$126
HDX 27 gal tote (999‑27G‑HDX) — base row
4
~$9.98
~$40
HDX 14 gal tote (999‑14G‑HDX)
26
~$8.98
~$233
2½″ construction screws (5 lb)
1 box
~$27
~$27
¼″×4″ structural screws
8
~$1.4
~$11
Rack only (lumber + screws)
~$197
With 30 totes
~$470
Column plan (right → left)
Col
From right corner
Ceiling
Totes
1 (right)
2–22″
~96″
7
2
24–45″
~105″
7
3
46–68″ (peak)
~114″
8
4 (left)
69–90″
~109″
8
Bottom tier of every column is the 27‑gal; totes 2–8 are 14‑gal. Even with the taller base the tall columns top out ~99″ — still 10–15″ under the peak.
Which screw where
Screw
Where
Why
2½″ construction (star drive)
Everything wood-to-wood: runners into legs (2/end), base rails, ties
1½″ through the first board + 1″ bite — strong, and nothing pokes through the far face
¼″×4″ structural (SPAX PowerLag / Simpson SDWS)
Back legs → gable-wall studs
The anti-tip anchor. This one is meant to pass through the leg into the stud